'Zinfandel memories' - Seattle Times, October 17, 2007

Excerpted from Paul Gregutt's article
Copyright 2007 The Seattle Times

'Zinfandel memories'
October 17, 2007

Many readers have written to express their concern over the rising alcohol content of many wines, particularly California zinfandels. An increasing number of them now top 16 percent and some reach beyond 17 percent alcohol. It is difficult, if not impossible, to drink such wines with food; they blow out all flavors except jammy fruit and chocolatey oak. Nuance and detail? Forget about it!

So it was an almost-forgotten pleasure to visit the home of some wine-loving friends where the best wines of the night were both under 14 percent. A Nalle 2004 Reserve Zinfandel ($40) — the first in the winery's history displayed the bright and brilliant raspberry fruit that used to characterize many of the best Dry Creek Valley zins. Young, sappy and seductive, it was a walk down memory lane, a return to a time when zinfandel was my California red wine of choice.