"The Spirit of America: A wine that has pride and passion lets us exercise our basic right to disagree" - Wall Street Journal, October 2, 2000

Excerpted from The Wall Street Journal, Friday, October 6, 2000
© Copyright 2000 The Wall Street Journal

The Spirit of America
A Wine That Has Pride and Passion Lets Us Exercise Our Basic Right to Disagree
by Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher

Keep this in mind about Zinfandels: They get better with age, so if you see one with some years on it, it's likely to be better, especially with food. In fact, for this column, we opened up two 1993 Zins from our own cellar - a Nalle and a Ravenswood "Wood Road Belloni." The Ravenswood was still too young, and the remarkable thing about the hear-the-angels-singing Nalle was that it was virtually unchanged since the last time we tried it in 1997. It has many years ahead of it. How many? Consider these notes on a 1970 Ridge "Jimsomare," which we drank on Sept. 3, 1997, with John's Grandma Helen's famous brisket:

"Awesome, huge, sweet-fruit nose. Cedar, cigar - really smells like wine. Intense, raisin wine. Massive, sweet, long, hot finish. Untamed California fruit. Big, yet austere, without any clumsiness. Still young!"