A Wine So Big It's Hard to Hug - NY Times, July 4, 2007

Excerpted from Eric Asimov's article
Copyright 2007 The New York Times

A Wine So Big It's Hard to Hug by Eric Asimov,
July 4, 2007

...I wrapped a bite of chicken and sauce in a soft corn tortilla with some rice and beans, and I was eating what I wanted to eat, but what to drink?

Again, I had two contrasting zinfandels. The first was another Dry Creek Valley, a 2004 Nalle, which is on the lighter side, like the Sky, but with more complexity, the berry flavor tempered by tar, pepper and eucalyptus. It was delicious with the chicken.

Then, a 2004 Turley from the Dusi Vineyard in Paso Robles. Turley is the nitro-burning funny car of the zinfandel world, more powerful than most others, and this was no exception. I found remarkably dense, almost sweet flavors of cherry and raspberry, but missed the peppery bite I find in many other zins. This one wasn't compelling, at least not with this food.