Poor Chardonnay—the most praised and damned varietal in the universe. But at its finest, it makes a strong case for the best white grape grown. Bob and Toni Hopkins know how to grow great Chardonnay and the Russian River Valley has long been considered its best American appellation—just enough daytime heat to achieve ripeness with foggy nights to moderate the diurnal cycle. We've enhanced the juicy acidity and pear/apple varietal character with notes of crème brûlée from Alain Fouquet's finest French barrels. In a recent vertical tasting, we felt the 2004 was just hitting its stride. So, lay some down for future enjoyment.